The chief looms above the boulders at Squamish

Jeff taking it Easy In An Easychair V4

Stone carving at Octagon Boulders

Todd settling for Leftovers Again V3

Just got back from my first trip to Squamish, and it was amazing!!! Todd and I ended up ticking more than a dozen problems over the course of two days. The first day started with a light warmup on Squamish Days V0 and Squamish days traverse V2. After that I moved up to Anatomy Lesson V2. Then it was time for my first big classic of the day American Gigolo V3. After three tries it was in the bag! Todd insisted that I go for Titanic V3 another Squamish classic. I took the challenge and onsighted Titanic and followed it up by throwing down the V4 dyno variation of Titanic on the first try. At this point I was getting pretty whooped. I finished up the day by onsighting a V0+ and the V1 Twister on Titanic boulder. On Saturday both of us were getting tired a bit more quickly, but we didn't let that deter us from having another successful day. We started at Octagon boulders and both of us onsighted Along for the ride V0, Dyke Arete V0. I was looking at a mossy side of a boulder and thought that i saw what might be a first ascent, upon some cleaning and working it out we figured the grade was about V3. The bad news was that we found out that there was already a route on the face, but what we had cleaned was a variation that was not in the book. The route in the book was leftovers again V3 so we knew our rating was close. We ended up calling our variation They sell it by the litre V3 (Go the the Howe Sound Brewery and you will see what I am talking aboot.) I also ended up working through Slap, dont crimp V1/2. After visiting the Octagon area Todd had me go and flail on Superfly V4 with no luck on that we moved to the Easy Chair area. I decided that I wanted to try Easy in an easy chair V4, a Squamish super classic. On my first go I made it all the way to the crux move and was only about two moves from topping out. I kept throwing myself at it for about a half and hour with what seemed like less and less success each time, i was just getting too tired. The route is very slick and super sloppy and it follows a classic squamish soaring arete. It seems as though almost every boulder there has a soaring arete of some kind. totally pooped at this point todd and i fought through Slabicus V1. We continued up to todds favorite Arrowhead Traverse V3, with a few attempts we decided that we were done and just could not climb anymore. I know that there are numerous problems that i have left out of this post but there were so many that it is almost impossible to keep track. I am definatly ready to go back and spend another weekend tearing up my hands and sending some more classics.

 

 

mail@climbingjunky.com