Kyes Peak 7,227 Feet (Attempt)

August 29th 2004 - Aaron and I attempted Kyes Peak via Blanca Lake. We hit the trail at 8:15am starting at 1900 feet. After about 3 miles and many switchbacks we were at Blanca Lake. The morning started out cool damp and cloudy. By the time we go to the lake the clouds started to lift a bit and we were able to see up the valley to the Columbia Glacier, which we would soon be stepping foot on.

Getting around the lake starts with hopping on slippery logs to get past the outlet river. After the logs waited a long and wet bushwack around the rest of the lake. By the time we got to the other side we were soaked and Aaron had managed to submerge his foot in a stream. We stopped at a large flat rock to dry out.

After we were more comfortable (less wet) we headed up the valley toward the Columbia Glacier. Upon arriving at the glacier we were impressed by the amount of water that was flowing out from under the ice. If one of us was to fall into a cravasse I would have worried about drowning because there was so much water moving on top of and underneath the glacier. At near 5200 feet you turn right off of the glacier and slog your way up nearly 1500 feet of loose scree or as Scott and Dan know it $h!+. At near 6200 feet there is a choice bivy spot that overlooks that Columbia Glacier, Columbia Peak, Blanca Lake, Wilmans Peak and Monte Cristo Peak.

We continued to scramble up and up. Soon we reached the saddle between a small peak and Point 7025 unfortunately we were at our turn around time and wouldn't have enough time to traverse the ridge to Kyes Peak. Instead we scrambled up to the top of the smaller peak to our right it turned out to be 6606 feet. We decided to save time on the descent we would go down via the South Ridge which takes you more or less straight to Virgin Lake. To describe the South Ridge let me just say most of it was a great deal of exposure to one side and very steep turf to the other side with veggie belays. Aaron and I figured that descending via the Glacier would have been almost as quick, none the less we made if back to the car just before dark.