Ingalls Peak South Face Grade: II 5.4

On Sept. 11th and 12th Aaron and I climbed Ingalls Peak. Our intention was to climb the East Ridge II 5.7 and then rap the South Face and then Climb the South Face II 5.4. We approached to the start of the East ridge route with another party that we met along the trail. We let the other party start the climb before us. After watching the leader slowly move up the chimney, Aaron and I decided that we would be better off just skipping the East Ridge and instead just climb the south face. We descended the gully and continued up to the start of the South Face. There were about six teams already climbing the route. Aaron took the first lead up to a large ledge where we waited for about 30 min in the wind and sleet before deciding to rap back to the base where it is sheltered until some of the parties descended. After a short period a few parties were on their way down, so we started up. I took the first pitch the second go around, Aaron took the second pitch, and I took the last. We made the summit at just the perfect time, the sun actually came out and the winds died down quite a bit. We were able to make the 3 pitches of climbing and the 5 raps in just under two hours.

The Crowded South Face Route

East Ridge of Ingalls on left Mt. Stuart in background

Ingalls Lake

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