Approach: Take the regular trail that goes to the lookout. When there is snow start heading left toward the summit cliff just past little Pilchuck. Remember to assess avalanche danger before heading out onto the open snowfield. Keep heading uphill toward the face of the summit cliff. When there is no snow it may be easier to follow the trail around the west side of the summit cliff until it is right on top of the ridge. From here you can decsend a gulley and traverse east back along the base of the summit cliff. Look for the area of the cliff that has the flattest looking face that is broken by a stair like pattern of ledges.

The Climb: At the base of this face are two large blocks with a slot in between. Climb up the slot to the top of the block on the right. Set anchor and belay from here. (First red dot) From the belay traverse onto the opposite block to the left and climb directly up the arete and over a small steep section (stay left) and onto a ledge. Follow the ledge up and to the right. You will come to a garden like setting along this ledge. Set your belay just below the small bunch of trees. The second pitch continues up and right over a couple of dirty ledges to a vertical hand crack. Climb right around the corner from the handcrack, gain another ledge. From here follow two short, wide jam cracks to the top.

Decsent: There are two options for decsent. 1) Hike the regular trail back down. 2) Rappel. To make a safe rappel follow the ridge to the East until you come to a spot that you can either make one rappel to the bottom or to a spot where you can set up a second rappel. Try not to litter the mountain with rappel slings. There are already enough cans, and broken bottles under the lookout.

Gear: Gear to 3".

We used a .75, 1, 2 and 3 camalot, Set of TCU's and a few large stoppers.

Matt at the First Belay	Matt Leading the first Pitch
Me on the approach to The Garden Route

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